It’s Friday and you’re racking your brain about what to eat for lunch. So why not head to Echo Park Lake and look for a guy with a friendly face and a sleeve of tattoos blasting early R.E.M. from a Bluetooth speaker? He’ll be standing behind a small folding table covered in a red checkered tablecloth.
His name is Josh Agran, and he wants to sell you a Philadelphia-style hoagie.
Too often, authenticity suggests only one way to do something, but we all know that's not true. He's trying to be as genuine as he can in L.A.
Most lifelong SoCal residents, such as myself, might not be immediately familiar with a hoagie, other than hearing the occasional mention of it in television shows or movies.
Agran, with his weekly Friday pop-up, Delco Rose Hoagies, is looking to change that. He’s there from 1 to 4 p.m. (or to sell out). Because of that, it's best if you order ahead. Trust me on that.
So let’s break this sandwich down. What exactly is it? Think of an Italian-style submarine sandwich, but according to Agran, a few subtle differences make it a proper Philadelphia-style hoagie.
The first is the bread cut; it should only be sliced halfway through, leaving a slight “hinge” where the bread is still connected. The other is the inclusion of an oil and vinegar dressing, although Agran points out that many people skip “the dress,” as it's known.
Agran, who works at boutique grocery store Cookbook Market in Highland Park, has done his homework, sourcing ingredients to make his sandwiches as close to the real deal as possible. He purchases his meats and cheese from Vons, the West Coast equivalent to Philadelphia-based chain ACME Markets; both chains are owned by Albertson’s.
He also uses Eagle Rock’s Bub & Grandma’s jumbo baguette for the bread. He struck up a relationship with owner Andy Kadin, who was a regular customer at Cookbook. Kadin is from New Jersey, so when Agran told Kadin about his hoagie concept, he loved the idea and immediately gave him a wholesale account.
There are various accounts about the origins of the hoagie. The most widely accepted is that it was first created in a naval yard on Hog Island along the Delaware River during World War I — hence "hoagie." He uses the name Delco to reference Delaware County, where he's from, which borders Philadelphia. The rose came from a friend of Agran, who comes from a rougher part of the county and lovingly referred to Agran as a “Delco Rose.”
The idea's genesis came when Agran saw turkey sandwiches being made at Cookbook. It stirred up something inside him, making him want to create a hoagie version, which he’d missed since moving to L.A.
So he made an Italian-style hoagie and shared it with his coworkers. They immediately loved it.
There are currently three hoagie options at Delco. The most popular is the Italian, made with Genoa salami, Black Forest ham, and prosciutto. A meat rainbow of all the cold cuts is formed over a garden of sliced tomato, shredded lettuce, red onion, and pepperoncini seasoned with oil and red wine vinegar. Agran also offers a turkey version, my favorite, and Italian cheese for vegetarians.
Agran's efforts have attracted other well-known Philadelphians who call Los Angeles home. One is comedic performer and director Eric Wareheim. After trying Delco, Wareheim told Agran, "It was the perfect hoagie." Wareheim then posted a photo of it on his Instagram, which caused Agran's follower count to jump to 600 in 15 minutes.
You can find Agran regularly on Friday afternoons near the bamboo trees, with tables and chairs nearby for people to sit and eat (or take them to go, as they travel well.)
Occasionally, he'll also pop up at other businesses around neighboring areas, most recently at the surf and vintage store OBLIVION in Highland Park. He posts his whereabouts every week, so follow him on Instagram to stay up to date.
